Tuesday, December 9th, 2008
Woo! Hoodoos!
Woke up this morning hot as hell from the propane heat blasting through its vent under the bed. My feet hang over the edge while I sleep, dangling outside of the blankets, where the fuming heat from the furnace catches with the fleece of the blanket and creates a sweaty tropical environment. I reached over to raise the blind and let the sunlight pour in. A disappointed sigh left my lips — so much of the morning had already passed. Mister immediately sprang from his cozy little spot, using my bladder as a trampoline to get to the window. “Ohhhhh, I have to pee!!” I leaped out of bed and shivered the whole 200 yards to the campground bathroom. “Ohhhhhh, it’s freezing!” It happened that someone left the window open in the men’s room, creating an icy glaze over all the toilet seats and a fierce whirling wind whipping through the urinals.
Here in Panguitch, Utah, the temperatures are dipping by degrees every day. It’s a drastic change of environment when considering that, just a few days ago, we were in San Diego touring a greenhouse in weather so warm that our tour guide opted to go shirtless. Currently, the temperature is 14º, Fahrenheit.
We’re about 30 miles from Bryce Canyon, one of the most gorgeous eroding territories I’ve seen since the Badlands. Yesterday, as we were driving around getting a feel for the National Park, a snow storm blasted through. At an elevation of nearly 9000 feet, you have to be prepared for the worst. We saw the clouds coming in from miles away, the big gray clouds with streaks beneath them that you can tell is snow falling in the distance.
It hit us at a lookout called Bryce Point, forcing us to run off the path and jump back in the car, screaming “WE HAVE TO GO BACK!!” But we drove only about three-quarters of a mile before we were out of the storm. It dumped half an inch of snow, then moseyed to another destination — leaving a big wall of clouds to block out the sun, but dropping no more flakes.
As the weather cleared a little, we saw the jagged rocks and hoodoos capped in snow. The bright red Utah canyon glowed like ember, with a gentle white snow adornment to soothe the blushing rock.
The word “hoodoo” may not be familiar to many people, but in Bryce Canyon the word is everywhere. Even the park newspaper is named The Hoodoo, and defines the word inside. [hoo’doo] n. 1. A pinnacle or odd-shaped rock left standing by the forces of erosion. 2. v. To cast a spell or cause bad luck. 3. Voodoo.
The voodoo spell that a hoodoo casts may cause tourist’s jaws to drop and eyes to bug out at the spectacular sight of it. We got a glimpse of some hoodoos before the evening shadows fell over them.
This morning we were supposed to wake up in time to see the sunrise in the canyon. The ranger said it would be an absolutely beautiful sight to behold. “Just think of it,” said Katie, “We’ll drive into the canyon while it’s still dark, holding big mugs of coffee on our laps. When the sun comes up we’ll go, ‘Waaaaaoooow!!!’” But we worked long into the night trying to catch up with the frantic pace at which we’ve been traveling this month. We worked and worked, taking a break to experiment with Katie’s own recipe for Pad Thai, which was a little chewy but spicy as the dickens and nutty and delicious. By the time 2:00 a.m. came around, we had barely gotten anywhere but were so exhausted that we had to put the table down, set up the bed, and get some sleep.
At 5:00 a.m., I nudged Katie awake. She turned to me with drool shining on her chin, mumbled something in monkey syllables, and yanked the blanket over her head as she fell back on the pillow. “It’s not too late,” I said, my own voice distant and my eyes blurry. “We can hitch up the T@B and make it for sunrise.”
Katie growled like a demon through the blanket. “I — JUST — WANT — TO SLEEP!” I wasn’t going to argue. My eyes rolled back in my skull and I lapsed into the narrative of my previous dream. It wasn’t until this afternoon that we got to Bryce Canyon to embark on a hike that the ranger claimed to be “The best hike in the world.” He continued with a smug joke, “If you can find a better hike anywhere, call us or shoot us an email — but I don’t expect to be hearing from you.” Did the three mile hike live up to its hype? Find out soon.
Right now we’re making homemade Belgian Hot Chocolate with marshmallows. We’ll drink it down and go to sleep solidly determined to see the sun rising over hoodoos tomorrow.
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